Solo in Paris at 60+: What It Was Really Like

As I write this, I am in that Twilight Zone mood of part jet lag, part “was it all a dream?” and “where do I start to write about my experience in the enchanted city of Paris, France?”

My trip was in mid-May, and spring was in bloom, but there was also a good amount of rain. Each weather episode had its own mood, but it was all wonderful! I flew there solo as a 72-year-old woman, wondering, “Will I make it back alive?”  My goal was to stay upright and see as much as I could in seven days without killing myself.

Watch my video about solo travel over 60 on YouTube

Months and months of planning and research went into my trip, and it sure beat listening to the news all day. It’s not that I’m rich and can fly off to exotic destinations whenever I want—quite the contrary. It was a reward for taking care of my new grandson for the last 18 months, five days a week, all day. That’s a load of work for an “old lady” like me, but I love every minute of it. My daughter has an abundance of travel points, so my babysitting work saved her family the huge expense of day care.

When my neighborhood of Altadena burned to the ground on January 7, 2025, I became a permanent resident behind my daughter and her family’s home. She has a guest house in the backyard. And even though the home I was renting was damaged, it didn’t make sense to move back.

My experience as a world traveler began late in life

I didn’t venture abroad until I was in my fifties. My late husband, who passed away too young in 2001, didn’t have travel in his DNA. He flew to Africa twice for film jobs, once when I was nine months pregnant, but never viewed those trips as vacations. His Polish American family spent weekends at the lake near his home in Michigan, but that was the extent of their vacation experiences. I, on the other hand, had a burning desire to explore the world.

A few years after he died,  I began living with a guy I had known before I met my husband. We went on several trips to Europe. Our first vacation abroad together was traveling through Spain. Several years later, we went to Poland for a conference and afterwards boarded a river cruise from Budapest to Prague to see the Christmas Markets.

On another European trip, we flew to Italy for three weeks before embarking on the Queen Elizabeth that took us along the Mediterranean to Southampton and London.

I was hoping to travel more together, but sadly, he died in 2020, right before the COVID lockdown. After that, I no longer felt the compunction to find another guy who might also die.

I enjoyed amazing mother-daughter trips

My daughter, who has a very well-paying job, took me on trips to Banff and Lake Louise in Canada, Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende, and Miraval Resort and Spa in Tucson, Arizona. Her job requires planning events and trips for employees and clients in her company. She has become my in-house travel agent and has been all over the world.

I’ve always dreamed of traveling solo

Solo travelers can set their own agenda without having to satisfy anyone else’s preferences. The idea was never scary for me. I know women who are terrified to travel alone, but when I got the opportunity to travel to Paris, I was thrilled. Life is short, so why not seize the day, right?

The thought of dealing with foreign currency was a little intimidating because my boyfriend, who was good at math, always handled that. However, these days, contactless payments via Apple Pay and Google Wallet are accepted almost everywhere in Europe.

It’s super easy. I set my credit card, which has zero foreign transaction fees, to local currency rather than US dollars. All I had to do was tap the back of my phone on the card machine when making a purchase. I never took my credit card out of my wallet. It’s safer that way.

I averaged about 18,000 steps per day, but I also became an expert at using the Paris Metro. It’s extremely well organized and easy to navigate. I bought a Navigo Easy Card at one of the stations and loaded it with 10 rides. When I ran out, I loaded more ride tickets using the Bonjour RATP app on my phone.  

I planned to explore one arrondissement (district) each day to soak up the neighborhood vibe. Spending time in long lines trying to reach the top of the Eiffel Tower or fighting crowds to get a glimpse of the Mona Lisa did not appeal to me. The neighborhoods are where Paris becomes magical. Each is different in its own way in terms of who hangs out there and what it offers. 20 arrondissements in Paris curl around compactly like a snail. I stuck to mostly 1-10 and 18, which is Montmartre.

The awkwardness of eating out alone

Dining solo can be challenging for women traveling solo, especially during the evening. Restaurants in Paris generally don’t start serving until after 7 pm, but even then, it might be empty. I’m more of a morning person and eat early at home.

One solution to avoid feeling uncomfortable was to book myself into three food tours that started at about 10:30 am. Each was in a different neighborhood: The Marais, Montmartre, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. To compare, I booked three different companies to see how they differed in style. The groups consisted of eight to twelve people and a Parisian guide.

We walked the neighborhood, learning a little about it, and stopped at the best local shops to buy croissants, baguettes, cheese, meat, chocolate, crepes, and wine. Then we sat at a table to relax and indulged in all the food we had collected. By the end of each tour, I was so full, I only wanted a snack for dinner.

I’m a full-blown foodie who will try just about everything, so food tours are perfect for me. If you have diet restrictions or are vegan, you may want to seek other options. There are vegan food tours available, or you can picnic by the Seine or in a beautiful park like Jardin de Luxembourg.

I ventured out to restaurants for dinner a few times on non-food tour days. My biggest concern was getting a reservation for just one, as it can sometimes be challenging online unless you call. However, Parisians often eat out alone, so there is no need to feel weird.

My original plan was to hit wine bars that served small bites because some are open earlier, but that only happened once.

I wanted to experience Bouillon restaurants, where you share a meal with strangers. They were created during the late 1800s to serve workers affordable meals, and most are old with fascinating décor. Boullion Chartier does not accept reservations and was steps from my hotel. I went there and was quickly seated with three French-speaking diners. One was an older woman who tried to communicate with me, but the room was loud, and I don’t speak French. When we got up to leave, she kissed me on both cheeks. It was very sweet. The food was bland, but I’m glad I experienced it.

On my last night in Paris, I blew off the Musée d’Orsay because it was raining and, with my daughter’s prodding, walked to the popular Frenchie Bar au Vins. I got there early enough to snag a seat outside, as there are no reservations, but it filled up almost immediately. That allowed me to explore rue Montorgueil afterwards, which is a foodie paradise and a fun street to stroll. 

On my way home, the sky opened up again with rain, so I ducked into the Metro and took it back to my hotel.

I didn’t take side trips because there is so much to see in Central Paris

I have been obsessed with the TV series Versailles for a while and wanted to go, but it is a crowd magnet, and I didn’t want to spend a day out of Paris. Instead, I got the Versailles experience at Palais Garnier (the Opera House in the 9^th that inspired Phantom of the Opera) and Hotel de la Marine. Few people know how magnificent they both are.

I didn’t check every box on my list, but I did pretty well despite my age and the weather

The week went by fast, and it was impossible to see everything I wanted to in depth. Boomers are adapting to “slow travel.” I was going a little faster than slow but not nearly as fast as some of the young influencers online. It’s best to go at your own pace, take time to wander, and see what you will discover.

Another consideration if you are traveling solo over 60 is your physical condition. You have to be honest about what you can and cannot do. Metro stations require you to go up and down steps. Not all have escalators or lifts. You might want to get in shape first before attempting a trip abroad. Travel can be exhausting, no matter where you go.

Contrary to many myths out there…

Most of the parts of Paris I visited were safe, clean, and friendly. There are some sketchy areas you may want to avoid, but the heart of the city is lovely, and I never felt threatened, even though I ran into one protest.  

You have to be wary of scams and pickpockets that occur in large European cities. Most are in heavy tourist areas like the Eiffel Tower and the Metro, but compared to the Los Angeles Metro, it was pretty tame. Traffic in Paris is insane, but the Metro will get you places in minutes. I never had to wait more than 3-4 minutes for a train to arrive.

It’s best to Google these scams on YouTube, as they tend to change. A group of young girls confronted me with surveys (RED FLAG) at Palais Royal, but I knew it was a scam and blew them off. I saw them surround a tourist and wanted to shout a warning, but being alone, I didn’t risk it. I feel guilty about that. But, to be honest, I saw more scammers in Rome than in Paris.

Always carry a crossbody purse and keep your smartphone out of sight, as they are a target for thieves. I wore over-ear headphones to navigate using GPS, so I wasn’t holding my phone. I also saw people with smartphones attached to lanyards or chains around their necks.

I also found Paris to be environmentally conscious. You don’t see many throw-away items as Parisians like to sip coffee in real cups, taking their time at cafes rather than ordering and going. The water is also excellent, and there are many fountains where you can fill up a small reusable bottle rather than haul a heavy one or throw away plastic. At restaurants, ask for une carafe d’eau (plain water) rather than overspend on expensive bottled water.

I did not see any dog poop on the sidewalks, even though I was warned there might be. France hosting the Olympics probably cleaned up the city like Los Angeles did when it hosted in 1984. There were some homeless laying about, but most were in the city outskirts. Graffiti is everywhere, but it adds to the character of the neighborhood.

Sign up for the government STEP Program (in the USA) to be warned of potential issues in the country that travelers need to be aware of. If something happens, like a terrorist attack, the embassy will know where to look for you.

Les toilettes (I think you can guess what that means) are available on the street. If you go in one, they automatically sanitize the entire room after you are finished. I never went inside, but I hear they are cool. Museums, restaurants, and shopping centers are your best bet if street toilets don’t thrill you.

View my favorite travel gear on Amazon here.

I prefer a small boutique hotel to a large chain or Airbnb

I booked a sweet, locally run boutique hotel on a quiet street in the Opera (9^th arr) district called Hôtel Adèle & Jules. The area isn’t as touristy as other popular areas. It is very centrally located and serves a lovely breakfast. The hotel is in a Haussmann-style building, so the rooms are small but clean and comfortable.

France is cracking down on Airbnbs, so be careful if you book one. It could cancel on you at the last minute.

I have always preferred small hotels because they give you an authentic experience and, because they are more intimate, you are well looked after.

Dealing with erratic weather

I experienced a few days of rain while I was there, which is common in Paris throughout the year.  I’m from Los Angeles, where we aren’t used to downpours, although we’ve had a few this year. I’m sure if you are from a rainy area, it’s no big deal. The only challenge I had was after my food tour in Montmartre. I was out exploring when the sky suddenly opened and dumped a ton of rain on my head.

I tried calling an Uber because it was a Sunday and the Metro line I needed was being worked on. Six different Ubers tried unsuccessfully to find me, even though I didn’t move an inch. Instead, I stood there getting soaked. I eventually gave up and walked back to my hotel. Luckily, the rain subsided, and I was able to discover another neighborhood I had wanted to explore. Sometimes adversity brings wonder.

Tip: Wear quick-dry clothing. Leave your jeans at home and waterproof your shoes if you can. Buy a windproof umbrella. Mine was toast by the time I left.

The airport is always the hardest part of traveling solo as an older woman

Maneuvering through the airport is a physical feat. I made the mistake of bringing a backpack as my personal item bag. I was going to do carry-on only, but that was nixed because Air France has severe size and weight restrictions. We had to check our suitcases because of the airplane’s limited space, so I ended up lugging my backpack through what seemed like miles in the airport, both in Los Angeles and Paris. I will never bring a bag without wheels from now on.

Going through the new EU security measures, EES, was a breeze. I heard stories that security and customs took hours, but for me, it was mere minutes. However, it’s always better to get to the airport three hours in advance for an international flight.

Another big splurge my daughter took care of was ordering a private car to pick me up at the airport and take me back. It was a black Mercedes. I also ordered a black UBER at LAX when I flew home, which was costly, because regular UBER at LAX means traversing across the airport to get to the pickup zone. A black UBER is allowed to pick you up in front of the terminal. After 11 ½ hours of flying, it was welcome.

Stay tuned because I plan to write more posts about my trip to Paris, including what I brought along with me, what I wore, and, of course, some of the amazing sites I visited.

Have you ever traveled solo as an older woman? Please leave a comment and tell us about your experiences.

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