How to Savor 2 Nights in Mexico City

My daughter and I took a short 2-night visit to Mexico City before leaving for San Miguel de Allende for an additional 2 nights. It was a quick stay in the sprawling capital city of Mexico, but we made the most of it.

Find a local guide in Mexico City here.

As a Californian, I love going to Mexico. When I was a teen and young adult, we would drive to TJ, Ensenada, or sleep on the beach in San Felipe. My boyfriend and I enjoyed a timeshare in Puerto Vallarta for a while, and my daughter and I took a trip to Los Cabos a few years ago. However, I had never been to Mexico City and was excited to go. My daughter had already been there twice before and knew the lay of the land.

We flew business class on American Airlines as she had points. (approx. 3.5 hours from Los Angeles) When we arrived, we had to walk long corridors in the airport to get to Customs. I tried to keep up with my daughter’s fast pace but I was getting winded which was weird because I had been walking for miles every day at home in hilly areas.

I found out later that Mexico City is 7,382 feet above sea level. That’s much higher than Denver.  If you are affected by high altitude, pack accordingly and bring headache medicine if needed. I was fine but had to pace myself.

Note to self for Customs: Bring a pen to fill out forms. We had to borrow one from another passenger, which was awkward because it was 18 months after the COVID pandemic lockdown.

Masks were mandated both indoors and outside in Mexico when we were there. Temperature checks were taken before entering hotels, restaurants, and most buildings. Hand sanitizer was also available in all public spaces. That was comforting.

Mexico City is Uber-ful

Once we made it out of the airport, we called an Uber. It arrived in about 2 minutes. We had the same experience everywhere else in Mexico City.  Uber service in the city is fast, cheap, and contact-free. Some Uber drivers have clear plastic barriers to separate them from their passengers.  A trip across town is only a few dollars, unlike in the States where Uber and Lyft have become less affordable.

The Four Seasons Hotel

My daughter was given a gift certificate to the Four Seasons Hotel on Paseo de la Reforma through her work. It is conveniently near Polanco, known as the Beverly Hills of Mexico City. It’s not far from Centro Historico, the heart of the capital.

Our room was on the 8^th floor overlooking a lushly planted patio area on the ground floor that comes alive at night with lights and activity. It was elegant, as expected with a Four Seasons property, and comfy. I was excited there was a Bidet in the bathroom and don’t know why they are so rare in the US.

Oh, those crazy sidewalks

Mexico City is a huge maze-like city, with streets in all directions. It’s easy to get lost so I was glad to have a millennial with me to navigate where we were going.

As a person over 60, I want to warn older travelers that the sidewalks in Mexico City are bumpy with large cracks, random holes, and plenty of steps. You can easily fall on your ass if you aren’t careful. Wear comfortable and sturdy shoes with treads and don’t try to be a glam queen with heels.

The summer is often rainy which can add to the danger. We were lucky it only sprinkled the first evening we were there making the cracked-up sidewalks even more treacherous. I had to keep my eyes on the ground and watch each step to keep up with my speedy daughter. It didn’t help that my mask kept fogging up my glasses, but I was glad to be wearing it.

Gorgeous parks and doggies

The area in Mexico City where we were staying is extremely dog-friendly. Well-groomed pooches of every size and variety were everywhere, especially in the gorgeous parks we saw as we rode through the city. They weren’t stray dogs like you often see in Baja. Most were with dog walkers or housekeepers.  Walking trails and bike paths are everywhere and well-used by active residents.  

It’s all about the food

We ate dinner that evening at El Parnita in the Chapultepec district.

 El Parnita is locatied at Avenida Yucatan 84 Local E2. Col. Roma Norte, Mexico City 09520 Mexico

It’s known for its great food and casual vibe. We had our first Mescal Margarita there which became our drink of choice throughout our trip.

Tequila is made with blue agave from the state of Jalisco but Mescal can be made from any of the 30 distillable types of agave available throughout Mexico. It is cooked in a pit lined with volcanic rock, and topped with trimmed pinas, agave leaves, and earth for several days.  Mescal has a smokier and more savory taste than tequila.

After dinner, we walked a few blocks to a tiny bar called La Clandestina. My daughter had been there on a previous trip.

La Clandestina is located at Avenida Alvaro Obregon 298 Col. Condesa, Mexico City 06700 Mexico

She surprised me by ordering a bowl of fried crickets with 3 shots of different flavored mescal.  I took one look at those bugs and couldn’t go there. I’ve eaten escargot but the thought of eating bugs with legs made me squirm. The mescal shots were great, though. We took it easy so we didn’t get drunk, disorderly, or get in trouble.

Morning space out

Just before dawn the next day we took an Uber to Polanco so my daughter could work out at OrangeTheory Fitness, a gym she belongs to in L.A. Even though it was barely light outside,  I went to find a coffee house. I snapped a photo of the street signs to remember where the fitness center was. Most coffee houses didn’t open until 8 am but I found a Starbucks and hung out there for a while.

I tried using my Google Maps app to find my way back but it kept sending me around in circles. My daughter texted wondering if I was dead because I wasn’t back when her class ended. We met up at the Pottery Barn but now I feel like I need a chaperone whenever I travel. If I plan a solo travel trip, I’ll have to improve my navigation skills to survive. LOL

Fabulous breakfast

As you may be able to tell, our trip here was food-centric. Authentic Mexican cuisine is better than what we have here in the States. It’s healthier, more flavorful, and not tampered with. We took another Uber to Nico’s Restaurant on the Northwest side of town because it was heralded as the best place to have breakfast in all of Mexico City. 

Nico’s is located at Av. Cuitláhuac 3102 Clavería, Azcapotzalco, Mexico City, 02080

It’s sort of plain inside, but the critics are right. The food there is outstanding! I had Enchiladas Nicos with chicken, salsa verde with cream, and grated cheese and my daughter had chilaquiles. We topped off our meals with homemade guacamole made at our table.

Centro Historico

After watching Roma, which won the 2019 Academy Award for Best Picture, I wanted to visit Centro Historico. It’s the colonial heart of the city. The Zócalo is the main plaza and is touristy but the 18^th and 19th-century buildings surrounding it are monumental. In my opinion, it’s as splendorous as Rome or Madrid.

On one end of the Zócalo is the Metropolitan Cathedral, the seat of Mexico’s Archbishop. Construction began in 1562 and was completed in 1813. I’ve been to some incredible Cathedrals in Spain and Italy, but the Metropolitan Cathedral rates up there with the best of them. It’s spectacular!

Several people dressed in Aztec attire and shaking heavy incense offered their services outside the cathedral gate to cleanse spirits of evil.

We walked miles along the streets surrounding the Zócalo because each street and alleyway was compelling. Art is everywhere, on walls, planters, and in playgrounds.

Vendors and street urchins were in abundance selling their wares and asking for pesos.

I wish we had more time to spend at the Zócalo but our feet started screaming at us. We also had reservations for a fabulous dinner later in the evening so we went back to our hotel to chill out and relax.

Dinner at Pujol

My daughter is a foodie like me, and she booked an Omakase Taco Tasting at Pujol in Polanco. Pujol was rated #12 out of the 50 best restaurants in the world for 2019. You have to make reservations months in advance.  It’s also featured on Chef’s Table on Netflix, Season 2, Episode 4. 

The restaurant inside is chic, high-tech, and upscale but has a charming outdoor patio where you can take your time and relax while you dine.

Pujol is located at Tennyson 133, Polanco IV Sección, C.P. 11550, CDMX, México

We were seated at a bar inside with a plexiglass divider separating us from other diners because of COVID. We were served 8 taco offerings with cauliflower, octopus, scallops, mushrooms, and other delicacies. The cuisine by Chef Enrique Olvera combines authentic Mexican ingredients displayed in a completely creative way. The mole Madre alone has been aged over 2,400 days.

Here are some of the tacos we sampled although the menu may change at any time:

• Kampachi taco, avocado, seaweed
• Tostada campechana
• Taco de coliflor, encacahuatado, xnipec
• Crab sope, kohlrabi kimchi
• Octopus taco, hoja santa
• Mole madre 2,441 días, mole nuevo
• Chileatole
• Nicoatole de fresa,helado de yogurt, frambuesas.

After watching the Chef’s Table episode, I learned the baby corn appetizer we had had ground-up ants in it. It was one of our favorite dishes so I guess now I can say I’m a bug eater. I’m glad I didn’t discover this while eating it, or I would have chickened out. Now, I’m sorry I didn’t try the crickets. (Well, not really.)

We happily downed our tastings with a chilled glass of Spanish white wine. Later we were led outside to the outdoor patio to enjoy a palate-cleansing aloe vera dish and dessert.

As you can imagine we left Pujol happily stuffed and went back to our hotel to get ready to drive to San Miguel de Allende the next morning.

But first, another breakfast

Our driver was booked to arrive at 11 am so we took an Uber to Maison Belen for breakfast. It’s a charming French-inspired outdoor cafe in Polanco. I ordered chilaquiles con Pollo with a cappuccino. The café is known for its excellent French-inspired pastries. As you can imagine, we couldn’t resist ordering one to take with us on the road.

Maison Belen is located at Emilio Castelar 31 Polanco, Mexico City Mexico

Tips for visiting Mexico City for travelers over 50 

• Wear sturdy and comfortable shoes for walking. It’s best if they have a tread. You may want to look glamorous, but you won’t feel that way if you fall into a hole or trip on a crack on the sidewalk. I wore my Ryka sneakers during the day and my Therafit sandals in the evening. If I had known more about the sidewalks beforehand, I would have brought a sturdy pair of ankle boots.
• Shorts are considered gauche in Mexico City. Stick with jeans, a long skirt, or a mid-length to long dress. You should also carry a light jacket or windbreaker in summer as it can get cool in the evening or rain.
• The weather is fairly temperate. January is the coldest month and averages about 57 F. April and May are the hottest months but it usually doesn’t get warmer than 80 F.   
• Take a walk in one of the parks. They are glorious. Bosque de Chapultepec, Parque Lincoln, Parque Luis G Urbina, Park España, and Parque México are recommended.
• Take Uber to get around. It’s cheap, contact-free, and easy.
• Drink bottled water and brush your teeth with it, to be on the safe side. Avoid ice cubes and lettuce.
• Don’t tell people “No.”  It’s an insult. Shake your finger back and forth in a “no” gesture instead.
• Enjoy eating authentic Mexican food because it’s amazing! Read reviews online first. If you want to try street food, which is abundant in Mexico City, and often fabulous, look for vendors with long lines to ensure it’s safe.
• Ask to have hot sauces and spices served on the side because they may be hotter than you think.
• Tipping is somewhere between 10 – 15%. The currency is pesos which can be obtained at ATMs. Most restaurants and stores take credit cards but you may want to have some pesos on hand for street vendors and tips.
• The safest neighborhoods in Mexico City are Roma, Condesa, Coyoacán, and Polanco.
• If you are there longer than 2 days, take side trips to places like the Xochimilco Canals (45 minutes away) which is colorful and festive, or the Pyramids at Teotihuacán (1 hour away.) Just be aware the pyramids are difficult to climb unless you are in great shape.
• Mexico City often experiences large earthquakes. The city has alarms that will go off city-wide 20 seconds before an Earthquake hits. If you can, go outside. Check to see if your accommodation has been retrofitted.
• Unlike when we used to go to Hussong’s Cantina in Ensenada in the 70s, cocktails are meant to be sipped and not shot like a Frat boy.
• Buy travel insurance before you go. I bought mine online at Visitor’s Coverage. They aggregate multiple companies to find you the best deal for your needs.
• Consider purchasing a translator if you do not speak Spanish. Vasco has a device that looks like a smartphone, translates over 200 languages, and has a SIM card to give you free lifetime WIFI.

Travel is a physical sport and you must be in good shape to deal with it. In 5 days I did 60,502 steps.

Mexico City is metropolitan, artsy, edgy, and sensual. There are dirt-poor sections but also modern, colorful, monumental, quirky, scenic, and elegant places to visit and have fun. If you are on a budget, Mexico is a fabulous destination to enjoy on the cheap.

Have you been to Mexico City or Mexico? What were your favorite things to do there? Please leave a comment below.