San Miguel de Allende, founded in 1542, is located in the state of Guanajuato in Central Mexico and is a popular destination for expats and American tourists. It’s known for its colorful 18th and 19th-century colonial architecture and has a burgeoning population of artists, bohemians, food lovers, and retirees.
Find a local guide in San Miguel de Allende here.
My daughter and I spent 2 nights in Mexico City and then headed to San Miguel de Allende for 2 more nights. After hearing about it from several friends, I was thrilled to finally visit.
We hired a private driver to take us on the 3 1/2 hour ride from Mexico City through the green and lush Mexican countryside to our hotel in San Miguel de Allende. You can also fly into Guanajuato International Airport which is only one and 1/2 hours away but flights from the U.S. are limited.
Some tourists we met there had driven from San Diego to the border in Tijuana. From there, they took an Uber to the TJ airport and hopped on a plane to Guanajuato.
A brief history of the region
San Miguel de Allende got its name from two notable residents. Juan de San Miguel was a 16th-century friar who later became a martyr during Mexican independence. Ignacio Allende was born in San Miguel in 1769 and became a captain in the Spanish Army. He fought for independence, was taken in for subordination, and executed becoming a National hero in Mexico.
Because of his bravery, the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende and was the first area in Mexico to gain independence from Spain. Allende’s childhood home still stands in the historic center of town.
In 2008, San Miguel de Allende became a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The silver boom
Silver was discovered in Guanajuato during the 16th century and because San Miguel de Allende was along the main road that miners and merchants passed through, the town became a cultural melting pot. Silver mining also brought enormous wealth to the region and by the 18th century was the home of rich hacienda owners who built mansions, churches, and prosperous businesses.
The town fell into disrepair after the ore was depleted and the Mexican Revolution and Spanish Flu reduced the once-robust population to a mere 7,000 residents.
A thriving art colony
American artist Stirling Dickinson moved into a former tannery nearby in 1937. He helped turn San Miguel de Allende into an attractive destination for artists and expat retirees looking for a better life.
He, became co-founder and director of the fine arts school Escuela de Bellas Artes in 1938 at the former home of an old convent.
Artists and creatives began to arrive, including notables like Diego Rivera, husband of Frida Kahlo. In the ensuing years, San Miguel de Allende became a bastion for bohemians like Jack Kerouac and Alan Ginsberg, hippies, and foreign expats.
Restoration
As the town began to thrive again the beautiful colonial buildings in town were restored and most are still owned by ancestral families from hundreds of years ago. The vivid colors of the buildings in the historic section of town are only allowed to be refreshed with the same original dye made with natural fruits and vegetation. Only certain colors may be used to retain the historical and cultural roots of San Miguel de Allende.
The Rosewood Hotel
We stayed at the luxurious Rosewood Hotel which sits at a perfect viewpoint to take in the beauty of San Miguel de Allende. It opened in 2011 but was crafted by local artisans to reflect the look and feel of the town.
When we were there it was 18 months into the COVID-19 pandemic and masks were required both inside and on the street. Our temperatures were checked each time we entered the hotel. We were taken into a beautifully appointed office to check in and were offered a lovely cup of herbal iced tea with cucumber slices.
The Rosewood was designed to resemble a magnificent hacienda.
The manager took us on a personal tour of the premises and led us to our room which had a long balcony overlooking dense green foliage and flowering plants.
The staff was so welcoming and helpful that it was almost hard to leave the grounds to go out and explore.
Wandering to El Jardin
Narrow streets lead to the main square called El Jardin in the historic section of San Miguel de Allende. You can’t miss the tall Mexican Gothic spires of the rose-colored sandstone Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel Cathedral.
Due to COVID, we had to pass through temporary entry gates that squirted mild disinfectant before entering the square. It was almost refreshing after walking the cobblestone streets for a while. I had to remember to put my lens cap on my camera so it wouldn’t get misted.
There are uneven sidewalks on each side of the narrow streets above the cobblestone. Someone always seemed to be walking in the opposite direction or hanging out by a doorway as we passed by. Cars were sped through the streets and avoiding getting too close to them was tricky. It’s challenging for old knees and ankles but I managed pretty well.
I have an obsession with old doors that started when I first went to Europe. It’s mesmerizing to walk by the fanciful portals that lead into hotel courtyards, restaurants, small businesses, and residences.
Rooftop views
We arrived in San Miguel de Allende in the late afternoon, and as soon as we were settled, went for a short walk to explore the town. Afterward, we came back to enjoy the view, and have some appetizers as well as mescal cocktails at the Rosewood’s rooftop Luna Tapas Bar.
We walked back to El Jardin to have dinner at La Posadita, another rooftop eatery that was recommended by our hotel. The sun setting over the Parroquia gave it an ethereal quality.
I ordered what turned out to be a large piece of pork on a bone. It melted in my mouth, and I had to stop myself from downing the whole thing. We enjoyed our meal with another mescal cocktail and were more than ready to turn in after our long day of travel.
La Posadita is located at Cuna de Allende 13, Cento San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Mexico
Breakfast and coffee on the roof
The next day was Sunday. We woke up early and were ready to find a coffee house and have breakfast. The early morning is a perfect time to walk the streets of San Miguel de Allende because there aren’t many tourists, and the light makes the bright colors of the town come alive.
The coffee house we originally headed to was closed on Sundays, so we randomly wandered into Ki’bok Coffee. Later we learned it is the most highly-rated coffee house in town. It’s tiny but you can climb up flights of narrow stairs to sit in their adorable roof garden. We enjoyed our cappuccinos and I eagerly devoured my delightful omelet. It amazed me how the waitress could bring plates and coffee up the steep stairs without dropping anything.
Ki’bok Coffee is located at Esquina con, Diez de Sollano y Dávalos #25, Cuadrante #1, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico
Walking, walking, and more walking
Our plan was to spend the day walking and exploring the streets of San Miguel de Allende. Why leave heaven, right? I wanted to find gifts for my roommates and peek into some of the shops and galleries.
I almost blew it trying to shoot a video for Instagram while walking the cobblestone streets. As I was backing up, I tripped but luckily managed to catch myself before falling on my ass. From now on, I will only shoot videos standing still. It isn’t worth killing myself to show off on social media. LOL
We wanted to go inside La Parroquia, but Sunday mass was being held so we passed on going inside.
After hours of walking about and shopping we headed back to the Rosewood to get ready for a food tour we booked for later in the evening. I can tell you that cobblestones are tough on your feet and I was glad I brought comfortable shoes to walk the streets. We noticed a few women on the street were wearing heels and I don’t know how they managed.
It’s not a town for strollers, canes, or wheelchairs, that’s for sure. Most retirees and expats live on the outskirts of town away from the tourist areas. That makes sense. The green farmland surrounding the town is serene and I can see why expats have flocked to this “in the middle of nowhere” destination in Mexico.
A quick snack
Our food tour was set for 6 pm but it had been a while since breakfast, so we had a light snack and mescal cocktails at Atrio, another rooftop restaurant that was recommended by our hotel. It’s located in a large courtyard with other shops inside. We climbed a set of stairs to get to the roof. Atrio is highly touted so you must have reservations to get in. Our hotel concierge was able to score us a spot.
Atrio is located at Calle Cuna de Allende 3 Centro, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Mexico
Our food tour and a huge surprise
I booked a Taste of San Miguel de Allende food tour before we arrived. We were to meet our guide at the Beelia in Hotel Hacienda De Guadalupe near El Jardin. It’s a boutique Spanish Colonial hotel that was a former convent 400 years ago.
Our guide, Chef Leslie met us at the door. My daughter and I were the only two booked for the tour, so we sat down for a welcome drink. We got to talking and I found out that Chef Leslie went to my high school 50 years ago in Costa Mesa and we were in the same graduating class. I remembered being friends with him in school but all those years made it hard to recognize each other at first. Small world, right? I was totally flabbergasted!
He is retired and has been living in Mexico for 18 years with his wife. Both ran a pastry shop in La Paz for many years before settling in San Miguel de Allende. They live outside of town and he is one of the resident tour guides for Taste of San Miguel.
His food tour focuses on authentic Mexican cuisine that uses locally-sourced ingredients. He also mentioned that he went from 260 lbs to 165 lbs following a Mexican diet that focuses on Mexican traditional food culture.
Hotel Hacienda de Guadalupe is located at Hidalgo #4, Zona Centro, Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico
Our first appetizer was at a rooftop restaurant called La Azotea. We tried a shrimp taco made with a Jicama tortilla, fried leeks, chipotle mayo, and tamarind BBQ sauce. I loved the jicama tortilla and our taco was tasty!
La Azotea is located at Umarán 6, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico
Next, we walked over to Andanza @TheBelmond for corn truffle and squash blossom fillings.
The Belmond is a hideaway hotel housed in a building that combines 16th, 17th, and 18th-century colonial architecture. It’s one of San Miguel de Allende’s oldest and most luxurious hotels.
The Andanza @TheBelmont is located at Umarán 6, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Mexico
The first two stops were appetizers, but our main course was at El Pegaso. We were served a Poblano Chile with Beef Mincemeat filling topped with a creamy walnut sauce and Pomegranate.
This intimate restaurant felt like we were sitting in a residential dining room. Our Poblano Chile was truly an authentic Mexican treat.
El Pagaso is located at Corregidora 6, Centro, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Mexico
Our last stop was for dessert at La Mezcaleria where we were served a decadent double chocolate mousse.
Warning: Be careful eating it. I accidentally snorted the cocoa powder and blew dust all over the table. My daughter couldn’t stop laughing. It reminded her of The Cinnamon Challenge on YouTube. Snorting cinnamon is not something you ever want to try but the mousse was to die for.
La Mezcaleria is located at Calle Correo # 47-A Col. Centro, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Mexico
We were stuffed after our food tour and had to say goodbye to Chef Leslie. At the end of the day, I put in over 18,000 steps. Not bad for an old broad.
Saying goodbye to Mexico
4 nights in Mexico is never enough. On Monday we were scheduled to be picked up at 9 am to be driven back to the Mexico City airport. The driver who had brought us to San Miguel de Allende drove an old sedan but the guy who drove us back to Mexico City had a large fancy van that separated us from the cab. It was lovely because we didn’t have to wear our masks during the long drive. We also stopped at a clean baño (bathroom) at the halfway point. On our previous ride, the clean bathroom was closed, and we had to use a toilet that didn’t flush and had no toilet paper.
Travel tips for travelers over 50 who are visiting San Miguel de Allende
Please read my Mexico City post and travel tips here.
In addition to those tips, these are more specific to San Miguel de Allende:
- Many bloggers say 2 days is enough time to spend in San Miguel de Allende. I say it’s not enough. We could have stayed at least 2 more days. Take your time, relax, maybe have a wellness treatment, spend time in art galleries, the park, and botanical gardens, and help the local economy by purchasing souvenirs at cheap Mexican prices.
- Staying at the Rosewood was worth every penny. Although, in truth, my daughter paid for it. She has a real job, unlike her bum mom. It has a stunning view and is comfortable, elegant, and luxurious. You can be assured of its sanitation protocols. There are many cozy hostels, small boutique hotels, and hotels in historic buildings in El Jardin that are also well worth staying at as well, or, at least having drinks in.
- Please don’t be an ugly American. San Miguel de Allende attracts many American tourists and has a large population of expats so you can usually find residents who speak English. However, in Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende, many only speak Spanish. There is nothing worse than an obnoxious gringo tourist. Please be respectful of the Mexican culture and be kind.
- Be prepared to walk on plenty of cobblestones. Wear sturdy shoes with treads. Leave your heels at home.
- San Miguel de Allende is 6,234 feet above sea level. It’s lower than Mexico City but higher than Denver. If you are not used to high altitudes, make sure to take it easy as there are plenty of hills.
- Take a tour and learn about the history of the area. It’s fascinating.
- Eat authentic locally sourced Mexican food. It’s soooooo good!
- Water is supposed to be sanitized in San Miguel de Allende but be on the safe side and drink bottled water.
- My Verizon phone plan covers Mexico and Canada. Make sure your plan doesn’t have roaming charges.
- Don’t lose your departure card when leaving to head back to the US. Keep it with your passport.
- Purchasing trip insurance is ultra-important, especially for older travelers. I bought mine at Visitors Coverage. They aggregate multiple companies so you can find the best and most affordable plan for you.
Have you been to San Miguel de Allende or Mexico? What are your favorite things to do there? Please leave a comment below.
It is so lovely and it sounds like you had a wonderful few days!
I did Carol! What a magical place!
Hi! Could you share the contact or name of your driver? We are looking for a driver to go from Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende. Thank you!
Hi Linh. I had to ask my daughter as she booked the driver. The company is called BajioGo Concierge. I linked their site under “private driver” in the post above. Thanks for asking so I could add the resource. Have fun on your trip. Both Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende are amazing!