After years of working as a social worker and psychology instructor, Suzanne Maggio walked El Camino de Santiago in Spain traveling solo. She was 60 when she did it and is a big advocate for solo travel.
There is never a right time to take a big adventure.
She is now 65 and, has taken three long solo walking trips. One was the third leg of the Via Francigena in Italy. It starts in the Tuscan town of Lucca and ends in Rome. The walk took her 19 days to complete. She says it was gorgeous, the food was incredible, and the people were wonderful. Her walk finished at the Vatican.
She has written a book about walking the Camino called Estrellas: Moments of Illumination Along El Camino de Santiago.
I interviewed her about her book and her travels. Watch our interview below.
Highlights from our interview
El Camino de Santiago’s most popular route is 500 miles long which you can do at your own pace in any way you like. Some people walk the entire trail, ride bikes, buses, horses, or drive. The average duration is about 30 days, but you can take it at your own pace.
Some people walk the entire route. Others walk sections. One friend of Suzanne’s took 10 years to walk the Camino doing one section and then returned after a year or two to walk another section.
Everyone walks their own Camino or journey.
The routes are an ancient network of pilgrim trails that end at the tomb of St. James in Santiago, Spain. According to Suzanne, the square and the cathedral are enormous and awe-inspiring.
The trek starts in St. Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz, France ending in Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain. People of all ages walk the Camino. Suzanne met some in their 70s and 80s including a group of nuns.
The major hurdle is hiking the Pyrenees Mountains on the first day but most of the route is flat.
Finding accommodations
There are many albergues (hostels), hotels, restaurants, and cafes along the route. The government of Spain supports the pilgrimage and has built a solid infrastructure to assist travelers, hotels, and restaurants.
Suzanne walked an impressive 15 – 18 miles per day but everyone is different.
The fitter you are, the easier it is to complete the walk, but you don’t have to be an Olympic athlete.
Although some, like Suzanne, walk the Camino solo, others take group tours, which are in abundance. She chose to walk it alone to push herself to be uncomfortable and grow in ways that come from traveling alone.
That meant she had to talk to others. Even though Suzanne says she is an extrovert, there were times during her walk when she felt self-conscious, shy, or anxious. She had to be willing to do things alone like eat at a restaurant or walk the trail without a buddy. All are opportunities to grow.
Planning your walking itinerary
Gauging the distance you will walk or where you will finish at the end of the day is difficult. However, many people who have walked the Camino before have written guidebooks. They tell you what to pack, what to expect, how to get to each destination, and where to stay.
Guidebooks are usually broken down into walking sections. You do not have to reinvent the wheel and can follow what others have done.
There are plenty of places to stop and rest along the Camino. That isn’t as true on the Via Francigena because it is less trafficked and finding accommodations is hit or miss.
Thousands of people walk the Camino so you are rarely alone and there will always be places to stay and food to eat.
Some people book all their accommodation before they leave but that isn’t always ideal. You may know where you are staying, but you don’t have the flexibility. If you don’t reach your destination on the day you’re booked you must cancel and find another place to stay. You may also pass through an area you prefer to stay in but are locked into your booking.
The weather could also affect your plans, although people on the pilgrimage sometimes choose to walk in the rain.
Most travelers book their lodgings a couple of days in advance.
There are only two places to stop over the Pyrenees. One is a huge albergue that was a former monastery. It accommodates about 300 people.
After the first day, you will get an idea of how it is going for you. You can then look in a guidebook or Booking.com and find places to stay in nearby towns.
To ensure you have a place to stay, avoid popular stops. Instead, stop before or after it.
There are many options on the Camino because the government supports hotel owners and restaurants to serve travelers on the route.
Suzanne says she stayed mostly in “pilgrim accommodations.” They are simple, usually with bunk beds. Some may offer a community meal with fellow travelers. Often a small breakfast is served and you have a chance to meet other pilgrims.
Occasionally Suzanne would stay in a hotel with a real bed where she could bathe and enjoy quiet time.
I had to ask where she went to the bathroom while walking the trail. She said some people pack toilet paper just in case. That only happened to her once. There are cafes and places to get a snack so you can do your business while you are there.
Just FYI, there are no Starbucks to stop at on the Camino. But local cafes are MUCH better.
We talked about how much we love Spain and its diversity. Each region has different languages, food, and culture.
Suzanne says the real gift for her on the Camino was the people she met.
You also get to learn about the places you visit on the Camino.
It’s an amazing opportunity where you don’t have to worry about your job, making meals for your family, or paying your bills. You can settle in and embrace the experience of the journey.
Suzanne felt present with the people she met, the food she ate, and the sound of the birds.
Estrellas: Suzanne’s memoirs of walking the Camino
Suzanne’s book “Estrellas” is about the way we grow, change, become educated, and open up when we take the time to meet people whose journeys are different than ours.
The metaphor of the Camino is “The Walk of Life.” During the pilgrimage, there will be obstacles. Everyone walks their journey differently.
Suzanne met a singing nun on her journey who gave her a paper star as a gift. It was to remind her that “You are the Light.” “Your job is to shine your light brightly so others can have light in the darkness.”
Estrellas means stars in Spanish. As a social worker, Suzanne’s life work has been helping others. The nun’s words resonated with her but she felt it went beyond her profession. It was about humanity.
The book is an encapsulation of that. All the stars (estrellas) Suzanne met as she walked lit the darkness and shared their light with her.
Purchase Estrella on Amazon here.
The physicality of walking the Camino
The first day hiking the Pyrenees is hard. You go straight up for about 8-10 miles. But, because it’s the first day you are excited and have adrenaline pumping. It’s good that you get the hardest part over right away.
There is a place to stay about 8-10 miles in called the Orisson Refuge. Suzanne met a group of nuns walking near her who were in their 70s. They took their time ascending the Pyrenees and stayed there.
I asked Suzanne if she trained to walk the Camino. She said she has always been active walking and swimming, but did longer walks to prepare.
If you are in good physical shape, walking the Camino is manageable. However, Suzanne met people who weren’t in great shape. They made the trek anyway and enjoyed their experience.
One man pushed his wife, who had muscular dystrophy, up the Pyrenees in a wheelchair with the help of family members. They completed the entire trip.
The cost of walking the Camino
I’ve always wanted to walk the Camino but was concerned about the cost especially because it takes a month or so to complete. Suzanne assured me it is inexpensive and can be done for as little as a couple of thousand dollars.
Suzanne found her Italian roots in Italy
Suzanne’s ancestors on both sides came from Italy. In her 50s, she had the opportunity to teach in Barcelona for the college she works for. She decided to claim Italian citizenship to embrace her heritage. and possibly live in Italy one day.
Getting all the documentation together took many months. Before she went to Barcelona, she applied at the Italian consulate in San Francisco where she lives. By the time she returned from Barcelona, she had earned her citizenship. She now holds dual citizenship.
She has been to Italy several times, but always as a tourist. When she walked the Via Francigena, she saw that part of Italy slowly and connected to her roots.
She has an Italian passport which she uses when she travels. The journey was to feel more Italian on the inside and she got a sense of it when she did the walk.
Immersive travel
As Americans, we already know the American experience. Traveling to other places is a chance to step into a different experience and gain perspective on local life. Instead of staying at an American hotel chain, book a small or more authentic hotel to immerse yourself in the culture.
Suzanne is married with grown children, so she doesn’t always solo travel although her husband is very supportive when she does. Although some of her best trips have been with her family, she believes solo travel is important and worthwhile.
Solo travel allows you not to worry about anyone else’s schedule so you can take your time and enjoy the experience on your terms.
Suzanne’s podcast “From Sparks to Light”
Suzanne created a podcast called “From Sparks to Light” based on her experiences walking the Camino. It’s about people making a difference in their communities. She interviews people around the world who are spreading light.
Have you ever dreamed of walking the Camino or going on a similar adventure? Please leave a comment and tell us about it.
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