It had been nearly a decade since my last trip to Europe. Life had gotten in the way, including the loss of my longtime travel companion. When I had the opportunity to spend a week in Paris, I immersed myself in researching the city for almost a year, reading articles, watching YouTube videos, and anything else I could get my hands on.
I apologize in advance for this long post, but I hope it inspires you to travel solo, whether it’s Paris or somewhere close to home.
As a solo female traveler over 70, the idea of going to a European city on my own was a little scary, but it was mostly exciting. My trip was a reward for providing daycare for my grandson from 3 to 18 months old, so my daughter and her husband could work.
I was happy to do it and adore the little guy, but at my age, it’s a big job. Babysitting will be an ongoing occupation for me as my daughter is expecting baby number two in several months.
My daughter works for an investment capital firm, and her job includes booking trips and events for her company. She has plenty of airline points, so she booked my flight, paid for my hotel, and airport transport.
However, all my activities and dining were planned by me. I had each day meticulously organized on a Google sheet so I could refer to it on my phone or tablet while I was there. I also printed the pages and put each day’s itinerary, including directions, in my tote bag to carry with me. It was more to remind me of where to go next.
I’m not usually that anal, in fact, far from it, but as I was traveling alone, my goal was to see as much as I could without overdoing it.
My physical condition as a solo senior traveler
At the time of my trip in May 2026, I was 72, 5’2” tall, 170 pounds (I’m working on losing 40 lbs, but am down 15 from where I was before), no meds, no supplements, creaky knees from weak hips according to my physical therapist)
How I got around the city of Paris
I used Google Maps to navigate the city. In case of a service disruption, I downloaded the city of Paris on my Google Maps app. To avoid constantly looking at my phone while I walked, I wore over-ear headphones so I could keep my phone safely in my crossbody bag.
I know many travelers use eSIMs to avoid roaming and data charges, but I used my Verizon international travel plan, and it worked just fine. It’s a little more expensive ($12 per day), but I didn’t want to mess with my phone settings. For safety, I used over-the-ear headphones to listen to my Google GPS.
It worked well. Sometimes I had to take out my phone to check how far to walk. And, occasionally, Google Maps “got drunk” and took me farther than I needed to go. I didn’t mind, because getting lost in Paris is fun except when it was pouring rain, which happened on several occasions.
I got to know the Paris Metro System right away. It is remarkably efficient and easy to figure out. Paris has Metro Stations practically every 300 meters. I bought a Navigo Easy Pass at one of the stations.
There are kiosks for that, but I went to the counter to make sure I did it right. Then I was able to upload more passes using my phone with the Bonjour RAPT app. It can also map out your route.
I still get emails from the app giving me Paris transport tips, but I haven’t unsubscribed, hoping I will do Paris Part 2 next year. LOL
There is tons of traffic in Paris, so the Metro is the fastest way to get around the city.
Just a note: You have to go up and down many steps to ride the Metro. Not all stations have escalators. In fact, very few do. I didn’t mind because I view going up and down steps as exercise. But I ALWAYS held onto the rails because I didn’t want to fall.
At this age, never take chances on steps. The rails are there for a reason.
I didn’t go everywhere I planned, but I got pretty close. Either I pooped out, or it rained. I averaged about 18,000 steps per day, which surprised me, and I was pretty proud of it.
Watch my short video of what I explored in Paris
Below is my 7-day Paris itinerary: what I planned and what I actually accomplished
My goal was to immerse myself in one arrondissement (neighborhood-district) per day and soak it all in rather than attempt to zip back and forth across town.
I purposely avoided heavily crowded tourist landmarks as standing in line for long periods did not appeal to me or my creaky knees.
I live in Los Angeles, where we have some amazing museums, so I didn’t feel the need to go to the Louvre and fight the crowds to see the Mona Lisa. I sought out small quirky museums instead.
I can’t even go into a Costco without freaking out a bit.
Day 1 – Travel day – LAX to CDG – 10 ½ hours arriving in Paris at 10 am. – It was a gorgeous and sunny day
I flew Air France. The walk to the gate at LAX and to the baggage area in Paris seemed like miles. I had to check my bag because of the weight, and got stuck with a backpack without wheels to carry to the gate. Even though the backpack itself was lightweight, it was heavy with all my stuff. From now on, any bag I carry must have wheels.
There was major turbulence over Greenland. It was a bit scary, but I had my Trtl neck pillow and eye mask on, so they helped me calm down.
Where I stayed
My daughter booked my hotel for the day before I arrived to avoid having to store my luggage and wait until my room was ready. It was a boutique hotel called Adèle & Jules in the 9th (Opera) arrondissement.
That way, I could go straight to my room, take a shower, and unpack when I arrived. She also booked a private car, which turned out to be a Mercedes. I felt like a Queen.
Originally, I planned to have lunch before embarking on a 3 pm cruise from Canal St. Martin to the Seine, but I had eaten on the airplane (not the greatest food) and wasn’t hungry yet.
Instead, I bought my Metro Pass and took the Metro to the Canal. I left early in case I wanted to grab a bite before the cruise or if I got lost. I walked farther than I needed to (got lost), but I didn’t mind. As I mentioned before, getting lost in Paris is fun!
I met a chatty woman from Australia who was also taking the cruise, and we both got in line to sit at the front of the boat. The cruise took us through two locks and under the canal, which was fascinating. It went past the Eiffel Tower and landed at the Ile de la Cité near Notre Dame Cathedral two hours later. I highly recommend this cruise.
I booked a 6 pm viewing of Sainte-Chapelle, which has amazing stained-glass windows and is also on the Ile de la Cité. By that time, I was ravenously hungry, so I grabbed a sandwich across the street and got in line for my timed entry. I had to climb up two flights of a narrow spiral staircase, but it was well worth it.
I had planned to eat dinner at a wine bar on Place Dauphine, but by then I was exhausted, so I took an Uber back to my hotel. I could have easily taken the Metro, but I wasn’t quite up to speed at that point.
Day 2 – A food tour and exploring the Marais – Another lovely sunny day
My daughter ordered breakfast for me each day at my hotel. The hotel put out a lovely spread and had a great coffee machine that made cappuccinos, among other things. I know experts suggest not ordering hotel breakfasts and instead looking for the best croissants, but eating on site avoids excess walking.
I booked the Ultimate Food Tour in the Marais with Devour Tours for 10:30 am and successfully took the Metro there, arriving about an hour early. That allowed me to walk around a little bit before the tour.
When our guide arrived, he had his leg in a cast and was walking with a cane. I knew our tour was not going to be a walking sprint, which was comforting. Several members of our tour were older than me.
Our guide had already picked up some delicious croissants, which we ate as he talked about the Marais and food in general. Then we walked to the best places to taste award-winning chocolate and macaroons, and then picked up more food at a boulangerie, patisserie, and meat and cheese shops.
We also had a fabulous pastrami sandwich at Sacha Finkelsztajn (since 1946) in the old Jewish section of the Marais, yummy French Onion Soup at a local restaurant, and ended up at a wine bar where we ate the cheeses, meats, baguettes, and desserts we picked up along the way.
One cranky 80 + year old woman in our group, who came along with a friend, slipped on the stairs on the way to the bathroom at the restaurant we were eating in. She refused any help but managed to power through it even though she was determined to hate the tour from the beginning. I’m sure she felt the pain the next day.
Again, hold on to the rails.
After the tour, I had a list of things I wanted to do. We ended near Hôtel de Sully, a Louis XIII-style mansion (hotel means mansion in French). I walked through the courtyard that goes directly into Place des Vosges, where I quickly hit up a public bathroom in the garden that had no toilet paper.
I walked through its famous arches, searching for the former home of Victor Hugo. It is a free and fascinating museum that has a lovely hidden garden.
I had tea in the garden and then headed to Musée Carnavalet, also in a mansion, which focuses on the history of Paris. It is also well worth visiting.
My feet were burning by that time. I wanted to see the National Archives and explore more of the Jewish section, but had to call it a day.
I loved the vibe of the Marais. Its architecture is more medieval than most of Paris, which was redeveloped by Haussmann in the 19th century. I also loved its old doors, which are former carriage entrances. Most open up into hidden mansions.
There was an exhibit of Dior and Alaia clothing designs in the Marais, which I wanted to see but never got back to. Next time, I guess.
I took the Metro back to my hotel. It was a piece of cake.
For dinner, I ate at Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards, which opened in 1896. It is a perfect example of the 19th-century Belle Époque / Art Nouveau style. Paris’s bouillions serve affordable French food with shared tables. Sadly, the food was rather bland, but the experience was intriguing.
Day 3 – Food tour in Montmartre under the threat of rain
Montmartre was the location of Paris Food Tour: Eat Like a Local with Cheeses, Wines & Secrets. It was my second out of three food tours.
I had to take an Uber there because it was Sunday and Metro line 12 was undergoing maintenance. I arrived at Montmartre Abbesses Metro station before the area was closed to cars; otherwise, there would be steep stairs to climb.
As usual, I arrived early, so I walked around waiting for the tour guide to arrive. Many tour groups were also gathering. The Love Wall next to the station was being fixed after becoming damaged by construction behind it. Half of it was covered.
Our young (22-year-old) tour guide with Secret Food Tours arrived, and he was delightful and knowledgeable. This group of 12 was a little younger than the last one.
He took us to the same types of shops as on the first tour, to gather food for our feast later. We also got to taste some terrific crepes along the way, and he told us some historical facts about Montmartre. The second part of our tour took place in a private room where we ate all the wonderful food we had collected and drank wine.
When the tour ended, I planned to make several stops in the back end of Montmartre, away from most of the tourists. I took the funicular up to Sacre Coeur Cathedral and walked to the garden behind it.
It began to rain a little. I tried to find Maison Rose, Musée de Montmartre, and a few other landmarks, but then it started pouring. I wanted to return to my hotel and wait it out, but had about six massive Uber fails.
An Uber would approach me and then disappear, leaving me drenched. For some dumb reason, they couldn’t find me even though I never left my position.
The rain began to subside, so I gave up and walked back to the hotel, which was only about 25 minutes away. It was a gift in a way, because it allowed me to see the charming streets of rue des Martyrs and rue Fahlberg Montmartre.
When I arrived at my hotel, I looked like a drowned rat, but I was a happy one. It was evening by the time I arrived, and I was too full from the tour to eat dinner.
Day 4 – Food tour in Saint-Germain des Prés – slightly rainy day
I took the metro to rue du Bac to join another food tour of West Saint-Germain by Paris by Mouth. Our tour guide, Roman, was a real sweetie. The group was very nice, and several other ladies were also traveling solo.
It was basically the same routine, visiting local shops and picking up delicious food. We ended in a wine shop where we had to climb a ladder to get upstairs. We all had a fabulous time! I love food tours!
Afterward, I walked to Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche seeking a gift for my daughter, but had no luck.
Jardin du Luxembourg was close by, so I went there, sat by the pond, and then by the Medici Fountain. It’s an enormous and gorgeous garden. I could have stayed all day, but I had a list of must-sees.
I walked to the Cour du Commerce Saint-Andre, a historical passage with restaurants dating back to the 1600s. Ben Franklin ate at Café Procope, established in 1682.
From there, I walked to the splendid Saint-Germain des Prés church and had a hot chocolate at Comptoir Deux Magots. Deux Magots and Café de Flore are old literary hangout cafes in Saint-Germain, but are also tourist traps, so I just looked but didn’t stop in. Comptoir Deux Magots is owned by Deux Magots but is new.
I missed a few places on my list, like Place Furstenberg and Saint-Sulpice, another old church.
When I returned to the hotel, I was again too full for dinner.
Day 5 Opera and the Latin Quarter – Cloudy and then sunny day
I was dying to visit the Opera Garnier, which inspired Phantom of the Opera, and had booked a 10 am self-tour.
It was beyond opulent and spectacular! If you can’t go to Versailles, it is a perfect replacement.
While I was in the Opera area, I stopped at Galerie LaFayette and Printemps Haussmann shopping centers to take in their stained glass domes and rooftop views. Spectacular!
I ate a yummy fish lunch at Galerie LaFayette Gourmet’s Poissonaire (fish) Restaurant inside the food hall.
Later, I took the Metro to Place Monge in the Latin Quarter. The Grand Mosque, which was not on my list, was nearby, and I heard it served mint tea. I didn’t find the tea room, but the Mosque was lovely.
Then I walked to the Arenes de Lutece, which is an ancient Roman arena. Kids were playing ball, and some people were picnicking there.
My next stops were walking the length of rue Mouffetard, which is known for great places to eat, Place de Contrescarpe, Saint-Étienne-du-Mont (built in the 1530s, Saint Genevieve shrine), near the Pantheon, and the Pantheon, where notables such as Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Josephine Baker, and many others are interred.
From there, I made it to Shakespeare and Company, the famous bookstore/café. It overlooks Notre Dame but is touristy and crowded.
I missed a few items on my list, including Musée Cluny (medieval history of Paris), but I was pretty tired by then.
Notre Dame was having a huge bread festival with a massive crowd, so I only passed by it to get to the Cité Metro station and back to my hotel.
That night, I had a fabulous and lively dinner near my hotel called Bistro Rougemont. Its host was welcoming and the food excellent.
Day 6 – Covered Passages Tour in the 2nd arr and Big Bus Tour – cloudy and dry until it wasn’t
The Covered Passages of Paris are shopping areas that were designed for bourgeoisie women during the early 1800s to allow them to shop, socialize, and eat without getting muddy. There are 21 left in Paris out of the original 300. Each is installed with unique local businesses. Chain stores are not allowed. They are great places to find unique gifts and collectables.
We started in front of Notre Dame des Victoires, a beautiful little church near Passage Vivianne. It was within walking distance. Our tour guide, Fanny, is starting her own tour company, and I saw her on a video with @LesFrenchies on Youtube.
We walked to Palais Royale, then through seven passages, including Galerie Vivienne, Jouffroy, Panorama, and Grand Colbert. I recommend this tour, especially with Fanny, as she is very knowledgeable.
Afterward, I walked to my hotel to refresh and use the bathroom.
I reserved a table for lunch at Le Vaudeville, a popular brasserie, and was not disappointed. It has an Art Deco décor, great food, and a lovely atmosphere. The restaurant was highly recommended by vlogger @ParisTopTips, and I can see why. I enjoyed oysters, duck, chocolate mousse, and Pinot Noir.
I had pre-booked a Big Bus Tour: Paris for 2 hours around the city, thinking I would stop at the Eiffel Tower and take another cruise of the Seine as I had purchased as an add-on cruise with my Passages tour. But, since it was raining, I decided to forego the cruise. One of the Big Bus stops was near the Opera.
I found where the bus was departing and got on, sitting inside instead of on the top, which is fun to do on a sunny day. It was a relaxing tour that took us to all the main monuments that I wasn’t going to have time to visit, such as the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs Élysées, the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Palais Royal, and the Musée d’Orsay.
I usually love to begin a city tour with Big Bus Tours because it’s a great way to orient yourself to a new city. An alternative is the Toot Bus or the Batobus (a Seine hop-on, hop-off cruise)
When I arrived back to the Opera Metro station, I stopped again at Galerie LaFayette Gourmet and grabbed a Jamon Beurre sandwich, which is popular in France.
By that time, it was pouring, and the wind was blowing, but I made it back to the Metro holding on for dear life.
When I got back to my hotel, I splurged on a glass of wine at the hotel bar, ate my sandwich, and called it a night.
Day 7, last full day in Paris – Exploring the Louvre area – another rainy day
I took my time in the morning hanging out at the hotel, and then walked back to the Palais Royale to look for a scarf at a little shop there. Little did I know it was Ascension Day, which is a holiday in Paris. The shop was closed, but I walked around the gardens taking photos. Palais Royale is very Emily in Paris. LOL
I would have stayed longer, but I had a timed ticket to take a self-tour of Hôtel de la Marine, an 18th-century aristocratic mansion.
I jumped on the Metro and took it to Place de la Concorde, which is next to Hôtel de la Marine. I was early again so I walked to the striking obelisk and fountain at Place de la Concorde.
When I arrived for my self-guided tour, I was given headphones. They miraculously knew which room I was in. Two aristocrat narrators, played by actors, took me back to just before the French Revolution, which ended in many beheadings across the street at Place de la Concorde. The rooms were opulent. Not that many people know about this tour, but I thought it was fabulous!
Café Laparouse is in the same building, so I walked in and was seated for lunch. It’s an elegant brasserie/cafe where I enjoyed escargot, a tasty chicken dish, and Baba Rhum. That was the most expensive dining experience I had in Paris, but I was happy I ate there.
Since I had already glimpsed the Louvre Pyramid from the Big Bus Tour, I decided to skip it. I planned to walk through the Tulleries, but again, it started to rain. I was sorry to miss it as it was spring and all the flowers were in bloom.
Instead, I took the Metro to Pont Neuf to find a gift at Samaritaine, another masterpiece of Art Nouveau/Art Deco splendor. I was finally successful and found a gorgeous scarf for my daughter that would easily fit in my luggage.
As I had time to spare before my timed entry at Musée d’Orsay, which is open late on Thursday evening, I returned to my hotel. However, the endeavor seemed more than I could handle after a long day walking around.
My daughter had been encouraging me to eat at Frenchie Bar à Vins near my hotel, but I never had a chance to go, so I reluctantly blew off the Musée d’Orsay and showed up there instead.
Frenchies is a small wine bar in the 2nd arrondissement. It opens at 6:30 with no reservations. I got there around 6:15, and there was already a line. Luckily, I was seated at an outdoor table and enjoyed a Kabab light dinner, with wine, of course, which was perfect.
After my meal, I walked down nearby rue Montorgueil, a pedestrian-only street known for its many eateries, bars, and shops. Stohrer is a patissier on that street, which has been there since 1730. It was a delightful stroll, and I was glad I reversed course as it was something I missed in the 2nd arrondissement.
While walking back, it started to rain hard again. My GPS took me off the beaten path into the 10th, so I jumped back on the Metro to my hotel. By now, my umbrella was toast, and I left it in Paris.
Despite the rain, my entire trip was glorious!
Note: When booking reservations at Paris monuments, go directly to the monument’s website as there are fake sites that will charge higher rates.
Day 8 – Going home
I needed at least several more days in Paris and didn’t want to leave, but duty called, meaning babysitting. My grandson’s other grandparents, who had been holding the fort, were due back in Missouri, where they live. If I could, I would never leave. Paris is my vibe. I want to go back for Part 2.
My black Mercedes came back to take me to the airport. Everything went smoothly despite what bloggers were saying about the new EES Security system. It was a quick and easy process at Charles de Gaulle.
I flew in Economy both ways, but this time had a whole row of seats to myself. The flight was smooth and pleasant, even though it took 11 ½ hours.
Two weeks later, Paris was reported to have a heat wave, the Pont Neuf, (Paris’s oldest bridge), was covered up by an artist to look like a boulder, and there were some riots after a soccer game. I’m glad I missed that. LOL
Planning a solo travel experience to a foreign country?
- Do it your way. Research your trip and plan to do what gets YOU most excited.
- Buy travel insurance – I used Visitor’s Coverage, which is an aggregate that will find you the best deal. You never know what will happen, especially when traveling alone.
- Wear the most comfortable shoes possible. Dress stylish from the ankles up. Shoes that hurt will ruin your trip.
- Train for your trip physically. That doesn’t mean you need to hire a trainer. Just walk every day for as long as it is comfortable.
- Stay safe. Be prepared for pickpockets, or any type of accident, including a hangnail. But don’t stress it. Join the STEP program, carry a crossbody bag with RFID, and put your phone either in your purse or on a lanyard. Pay with a contactless payment method, either Google Wallet or Apple Pay. It works practically everywhere.
- Make sure your loved ones or friends know where you are in case of an emergency. Carry written contact information with you everywhere you go.
- Allow yourself to have fun and the best time of your life! That’s the whole point, right?
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