As a Southern Californian, Minnesota wasn’t exactly on my travel bucket list. We don’t hear much about that part of the U.S. here other than it’s an icebox in the winter. But while I was there for a conference, I was both surprised and impressed with Minnesota’s immense beauty and down-home hospitality. We took a sidetrip from Minneapolis to the town of New Ulm, a German-American outpost.
Our first stop was the Hermann Monument honoring Hermann the Cherusci. (Hermann the German) He was an ancient hero who liberated Germany from the Romans in 9 A.D. The striking edifice is a smaller replica of the monument that stands in Detmold, Germany. Its first cornerstone was laid down in 1888 by the fraternal order of the Sons of Hermann and was designed by Alfonz Pelzer in Ohio. It was delivered to New Ulm and officially dedicated in 1897.
A History of New Ulm
New Ulm was founded in 1854 by German immigrants who were seeking to form a utopian society in America. Many of its current older residents are descendants and have lived there since childhood. One of them, George L. Glotzbach, who was in his eighties, met us at the town’s Glockenspiel dressed in full lederhosen. A walking library of knowledge, he regaled us with the history of New Ulm. You could tell he truly embraced his role as the town greeter.
The 45-foot-tall Glockenspiel, dedicated in 1980 stands in Schonlau Park in the center of town. Bells chime and 12 colorful characters emerge three times a day depicting New Ulm’s colorful past. They are interchangeable with a Nativity scene during the holidays. The tower’s 37 fully chromatic three-octave bronze bells were cast in Holland and can be played electronically or with a keyboard.
We sat outside under a stunning blue sky with deep-green foliage surrounding us and enjoyed a performance. The temperature that day (in May) was between 75-80 degrees. Picture perfect if you ask me.
Click on images to view full-size in a gallery.
An authentic German lunch
If you’re in New Ulm, you must have a meal at Veigel’s Kaiserhof, a traditional German restaurant established in 1938. George encouraged us to try the BBQ ribs, his favorite meal at the restaurant. He’s been dining there ever since he was a small child. I opted for the special, which was German sausage, sauerkraut, and potatoes washed down with a glass of local beer. There wasn’t a drop left on my plate when I was done.
Historical buildings
The Kiesling House, built in 1861, was one of only 3 buildings to survive the Dakota War of 1862 when 75% of the buildings in New Ulm were burned by Indians.
Schell’s Brewing Company
Our next stop was to the Schell’s Brewing Company in New Ulm. It’s the second oldest brewery in America and is located on the Cottonwood River. August Schell, who was an immigrant from the Black Forest of Germany, came to the area in 1856 and along with other German ex-pats founded New Ulm.
Being German and loving beer, he made the decision to start a brewery in 1860. The brewery also survived the Dakota War due to the fact that Schell and the Indians had a friendly relationship. By 1869 there were five working breweries in town.
The beginning of our tour started at the museum inside the brewery and I am proud to say I got carded before I went in.
The Schell family, who had been living in a modest house, built a 10-room mansion on the property surrounded by a flower garden in 1885. It is now listed on the National Registry of Historic Sites.
The brewery also survived Prohibition selling non-alcoholic beverages like soda pop and near beer. In addition to its original brews, it now produces a variety of craft and seasonal beers to keep up with changing tastes. We sampled an assortment in the tasting room and had giddy smiles on our faces as we walked back outside. The business is still owned by the same family and has been passed down for 6 generations.
A Bier Garten was set up on the grass surrounded by large green trees. An accordionist entertained with traditional German tunes. It was an ideal setting to spend a slightly tipsy afternoon.
Click to view images full-sized
Schell’s weekend summer Bier Garten takes place on weekends during the summer from Memorial Day through Labor Day. They also host a Rock Fest, Bavarian Blast, and Octoberfest throughout the year.
Minneopa State Park
On our way to New Ulm, we stopped at Minneopa State Park and hiked around its rushing waterfall and winding creek. Minnesota has 67 state parks throughout the state.
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Seppman Mill in Minneopa State Park was built in 1862 and at the time, could transform 150 bushels of wheat into flour. It originally had windmill arms but they were torn off by tornados. When steam-powered mills came it, it closed in 1890.
A genetically rare bison herd was released into the park by the Department of Natural Resources and Minnesota Zoological Gardens (Minnesota Zoo) to expand the Minnesota Conservation Bison Herd.
Things to do when you visit New Ulm
I would gladly come back to this part of the U.S. again, during Spring or Fall, because my California thin blood is not quite ready for a Minnesota winter. Maybe next time I’ll visit Minnesota’s famous SPAM Museum. A big thank you to Explore Minnesota for hosting our trip. #onlyinmn #TBEXinMN
Thank you for visiting and sharing your experiences! Glad you had fun!
Thank you so much! We all had a wonderful time there. Loved to food and beer too!
What a terrific glimpse into a part of the country I’ve never visited! And your post is such a great reminder of the wealth of history that exists here in the States. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Roxanne. It surprised me too. I had never been to Minnesota before but it’s quite beautiful.
Wow…thanks for taking me on your trip with you! I had no idea how gorgeous Minnesota is! I must go there someday.
Thanks, Ellen,
Who knew, right? What impressed me most was all the green, but I’m from Southern California where everything is brown right now because of our drought.
Fun post! I’d never heard of this place. My own little town (Bala Cynwyd, PA) has neither a bison herd or a glockenspiel. It does have plenty of mansions. But, alas, I don’t live in any of them.
Mansions are always fun. I love visiting and writing about them too, Roz.
I really like visiting MN. Quaint small towns and urban Twin Cities have wonderful shops, restaurants, and history. The Walker Art Museum in Minneapolis is amazing, and for little towns, I love Stillwater. I will be sad when my daughter no longer lives in the area and I stop visiting the northern climes as often.
If I would have come in a day earlier I would have been able to visit Stillwater. It looks so adorable. I hope I’ll have another chance to go back there some day. Thanks, Nancy.
Who knew?! I never heard of New Ulm but it sounds like a fascinating place to visit. Love your photos!
I’d never heard of it either but I love little towns in the US like Solvang that have immigrant populations and culture.
Oh this looks lovely and it is great to see the history of the place. I always feel living in Australia we are such a young country from the European settlers point of view that we don’t have a great history. Of course, ours lies in the indigenous culture of our first people.
I know what you mean. California history is fairly young also, except, of course, for the Native Americans. That’s why I love going back East or to Europe.
There are so many beautiful & amazing places that we consider flyover states. I always appreciate your sharing of them.
That’s a good description of it. “Flyover” states. We should land there every once in a while and be surprised.
I have a cousin in Minnesota so I have been there. It’s a beautiful state.
It was my first time. We stayed at a hotel that connects to the Mall of America. What a incredible place that was.
America is such a blend of cultures – so many people brought part of themselves there when they came – that mansion is just so gingerbread house-ish!
The mansion was gorgeous. I wish we could have gone inside but didn’t get a chance. The brewery was very cool.
Looks like a beautiful historic place. The Schell family home is gorgeous! By the way – listened to your podcast on yoga. Enjoyed it and learned some things!
So glad you were able to listen in. That was a great episode. So relaxing.
Rebecca –
Thank you for taking the time to visit New Ulm and Schell’s Brewery. We love sharing our little piece of heaven! It sounds like you enjoyed the afternoon under the majestic walnut trees in the Bier Garten too. We appreciate all your kind words, and again, thanks for visiting New Ulm and Schell’s Brewery!
Thank you so much for your hospitality. We all had a great time there and loved the beer. The mansion,gardens and all the greenery are heavenly, that’s for sure.
New Ulm is an awesome place, my mother grew up there and when I was a child they would open their homes to people from Germany. It was called Heritagefest. We would go to the fairgrounds were they sang songs and danced. It’s really a piece of heaven
I bet it was wonderful Kim. I love that people would open up their homes like that too. Thanks so much for sharing this.
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