I have sold hand-painted Limoges porcelain boxes for more than 25 years. This October, I went back to Limoges, France, after a long, long time away, to visit the ateliers and catch up with old friends in the trade.
How I Fell in Love with Limoges
I first went to Limoges in my early 20s. It was a quaint small town that supported the arts, and there was a lot going on back then.
Years later, I had a landlord who imported Limoges boxes, and I started selling them on eBay. Then I built my own website. I was struck by the artistry and the detail. I had an art degree and had studied pottery, so I could see the value in the craftsmanship.
My favorite Limoges piece was a Last Supper, number one of the edition. A longtime customer who buys Limoges for his wife asked about it, and I sold it to him in 2020. I wanted it to go to a good home that would treasure it. With inflation, I believe a piece like that is worth well over $8,000 today. I haven’t found another one since, and I hope I do.
Getting There
I took the train from Paris. Once I arrived, getting around was very easy. When I’m in Limoges, I walk, and my walk takes me through the park.
A Sleepy Small Town
My first feeling was that Limoges is a sleepy small town, like the one I grew up in. What surprised me this time was how much there is for the people who live there: a lot of support for local families, and a lot of activities for children. It is still a beautiful city, though, like many places today, I noticed more people living on the streets.
The Old Kiln
What I loved most was the old kiln, the Four des Casseaux. Its history is well documented. It is as big as a house. Standing inside, I felt overwhelmed. I kept thinking about how dangerous it was, and the heat, and how scary it must have been to work in it.
Afterward, I sat on a bench outside and reflected on what hard work it is to make these pieces. You have to be strong, with strong hands. And then, to paint, you have to have steady, dainty hands.
How to Tell Real Limoges
Look for the marks “Peint Main” (hand-painted) and “Limoges France.” But with older pieces, you need to know the feel of the porcelain. Real Limoges is a translucent, soft porcelain, and its whiteness looks like powder, not glass.
Tips for Your Visit
Any time of year is a good time to go. I would stay a few days. It’s best to go Wednesday through Sunday, because the stores tend to be closed on Monday and Tuesday.
What This Trip Meant to Me
This trip meant the world to me. I realized the Limoges industry now depends on the United States and Japan, and that work needs to be done to make Limoges known all over the world.
France still buys Limoges dinnerware, but the boxes are not as popular anymore in France and Europe. Much work needs to be done to reignite that passion in Europe.
You can see my photos from the trip in my guide to Limoges, France.
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