My daughter invited me on a short vacation to explore the Canadian Rockies with her. Decades ago, my parents vacationed there and loved it, so it’s always been on my bucket list. We planned to stay at Yoho National Park for two nights, not far from Lake Louise, before heading to Banff for one night.
Find a local guide near Banff, here.
We flew into Calgary from Los Angeles, stayed overnight, and then headed off for Yoho National Park. It’s part of a cluster of National Parks that include Banff, Kootenay, Glacier, Mount Revelstoke, and Jasper.
The Trans-Canada highway is an easy drive and incredibly well-maintained. After stopping to pick up snacks in Canmore, we passed through the Banff National Park gate to pay for an access permit to all 5 National parks.
Truffle Pigs Lodge in Field
One reason we decided to stay in Yoho National Park is because Lake Louise and Banff get crowded during the high season. Yoho is much less crowded but no less serene.
We booked reservations to stay at the Truffle Pigs Lodge. It sits at the end of the road in the town of Field, which has a population of 200. The town is a cluster of tiny cottages (mostly B & B’s or guest houses) and is next to the Trans-Canada Railroad tracks.
Truffle Pigs Lodge is a kitschy hideaway with a delightfully delicious bistro. It was recommended by a friend of my daughter who had stayed there.
What’s nice about staying in Field, (which is a ½ hour drive from Lake Louise) is that it’s away from the crowds. In the past several years, the Banff/Lake Louise areas have become inundated with tourists, mainly because of Instagram and Pinterest.
I can see why. The area has some of the most Instagramable places on Earth to photograph. The magnificence of the Canadian Rockies, its vivid turquoise lakes, rushing glacial-fed streams and rivers is mind-blowing in its splendor.
We had lunch at Truffle Pigs. All of their menu items are made with organic regionally grown vegetables and meat. It’s a casual atmosphere but the meals are worthy of any high-end restaurant in the city. The food was so good we ended up having most of our meals there.
A stroll in the rain around Emerald Lake
Our first stop was Emerald Lake, which is only a 15-minute drive from Field. The Emerald Lake Lodge is situated next to the lake and is another popular place to eat and stay. Emerald Lake is the largest of Yoho National Park’s 61 lakes and ponds.
We walked around the entire lake which is a 3.2-mile flat and easy jaunt. It truly lives up to its Emerald name. I was awed by the vibrant hues of all of the lakes we visited.
The unique color of the water in the lakes of the Canadian Rockies is caused by the source that feeds it and the reflection of its position in the sun. During the summer it doesn’t get dark until almost 10 pm so there’s plenty of time to enjoy their beauty.
A few people were out in canoes, but the weather was starting to become threatening. It began to thunder and there were several lightning strikes as we walked the perimeter. I wondered if we were being idiotic and was a little worried we’d be struck by lightning.
It rained intermittently, and by the time we made it back, we were completely soaked. The temperature was pleasant, though, so we weren’t cold, and afterward, we felt energized and renewed. I’m convinced the turquoise water has a healing effect.
The vibrant color of the water is caused by powdered limestone that washes into the lake bed when the snow melts, usually in July. There’s a small window to enjoy these spectacular wonders as it can snow again as early as late August or September.
When the glacier melts it releases fine particles of sediment called “rock flour” which reflects in the sun and gives the lake its amazing color.
The forest surrounding Emerald Lake is a deep green mixture of western red cedar, yew, hemlock, and white pine surrounded by craggy peaks with ice on top. It’s truly a tranquil environment, and not overly crowded with people like some of the more popular lakes nearby.
Better than Smokey the Bear
At one point on our hike, a helicopter flew over the lake with a large bucket attached to a line. It dipped the bucket into the water, filling it up, and then flew to dump it on a lightning-struck brush fire smoking between two peaks. There wasn’t any danger, at the time to worry about. It appeared to be a regular occurrence that was cool to watch.
A week after we left the Canadian Rockies, there was an immense fire in its mountains that completely engulfed Calgary in ash and soot caused by lightning strikes.
The magnificence of Takakkaw Falls
Another must-see attraction in Yoho National Forest is Takakkaw Falls. It’s the 45th-highest waterfall in eastern British Columbia and higher than Niagara Falls. Fed by the Daly Glacier, part of the Waputik Icefield, it tumbles 830 feet in one stretch and 1,260 feet in total. To get there, it is 17 km (10.5 miles) from Field on Yoho Valley Road.
The only time it’s accessible is between mid-June and mid-October because of the danger of avalanches. Skiing up there during winter is possible but avalanche training is required. Being from sunny California, I’m not too keen on the idea of having a huge pile of snow fall on top of me.
Spiral Tunnels and trains
As I mentioned before, Field is located next to the train tracks. It was originally a settlement for Canadian Pacific Railroad workers in the 1880s. If you drive around Yoho National Park there are lookouts where you can view the Spiral Tunnels that were carved into Kicking Horse Pass for the trains to pass through. Some are under glaciers.
I can’t even imagine the danger of building those tunnels. Many men died doing it. It’s quite a technical feat and the view from the Canadian Railroad train is said to be amazing. Up to 30 trains pass through the tunnels each day sometimes on top of each other.
The only drawbacks to staying in Field
Truffle Pigs Lodge was comfortable, free from crowds, and a perfect base camp except for one thing – the trains. They didn’t bother me, but I have to warn you that they may wake you up in the middle of the night when they pass through town.
We got up early to leave for a hike at Lake Louise but had to pass over the tracks to get to the highway. What was sitting in the way? A big long train! It sat there for about 10 minutes and we were worried we would be late meeting our guide. Finally, it moved. . . slowly. . . but it was a sight to see.
There are also mosquitos near the lakes during the summer. They love me and guess who got most of the bites? Next time, I’ll take along some bug repellent.
Check out top things to do near Banff here.
Read my other posts about our trip to the Canadian Rockies below:
Have you been to the Canadian Rockies or plan to go in the future? Please leave a comment below.
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